of 0.25!! (I just looked up steel friction coefficients online appears to be. Also, you should know that Steel on Steel has a C.F. Therefore FE pads fade when hot, and EF pads would not grab when cold. But a difference in the letter grade from medium to hot temperature could be an indicator of fade. Each letter grade can actually have quite a range of C.F. at 250 F and the second letter is a grading of the material at 600 F. The first letter is a grading of the C.F. Notes: These edge codes are located on the edge of the friction material of every brake pad by government regulation, along with some other codes. 064.94 FART SALE NUMBER PRICE 11:51 NUNTER EF MOST NEW OLD STOCK MADE IN.
Edge Code Coefficient of Friction 250 F and 600 F CommentsĮE 0.25 to 0.35 both temps 0-25% fade at 600 F possibleĮF 0.25 to 0.35 250 F 0.35 to 0.45 600 F 2% to 44% fade at 600 F possibleįF 0.35 to 0.45 both temps 0-22% fade at 600 F possible IN G5 ore 19 Racing Pistons 140 00 10 R626 Irmstrong Shocks 2.1 95 00 35 C 10. Edge Codes Located on all Brake Pads Official D.O.T. HH is a common pad for cars.Įxplanation of D.O.T. This chart I found and assume is accurate, explains brake friction material ratings.
On my "modern" bike ,what is called an organic pad gives better braking action for less than full out aggressive riding on the street. Yes ,mechanical ratios have to be considered. Nothing wrong with the 5/8", but the 3/4" gives you more feel IMO. The 5/8" is fine for single disc, but if you ever go to a twin disc consider the 3/4" bore. Why is the OP going for a 'bore reduction'? I missed that part in the thread? Might be a plan - pads are cheap, master cylinders are expensive apologies if I've posted this to you before but I use the standard 5/8" ID master cylinder with a single disc on my T100 and it's :bigt
I wonber if I should hold off the master cylinder bore reduction until I try try them. If the steel hoses between the yokes are rusty, I screw the brass 'T'-piece with the pressure switch on to the end of the lower hose where it pokes through the yoke eyebolt, then just one piece of hose is needed between it and either the top yoke or all the way to the master cylinder. Ime (personal first-hand) there isn't any noticeable difference simply replacing the rubber hoses between master cylinder and top yoke, and lower yoke eyebolt all the way to caliper with braided, leaving the steel pipes and standard switch between the yokes - replacing them with braided is expensive (the hose itself is relatively cheap, it's the end fittings that're expensive (and please tell me you wouldn't go to all the trouble of replacing standard with braided and then faff about with plated end fittings? ). Assuming your bike is a '79 with the in-line pressure switch as standard and you'd like to keep it:. However, that lumbers you with always using a banjo and bolt into the master cylinder.
It's a Goodridge part that the world and his wife stocks - "BL775-03" is a 3/8" UNF bolt-with-pressure switch, "C" is stainless steel. If your bike has a banjo fitting on the master cylinder end of the hose with a banjo bolt through it into the master cylinder, you can replace the bolt with one incorporating a pressure switch - enter "bl775-03c" into your preferred internet search engine. How do you arrange the brake light switch? He was amazed how well the bike stopped, for, in his words, so much effort had to be expended to make the buggers go in the first place ! When I bought my T140 in 1976, a Jap bike owning friend had a ride, and enthused how efficient the British brakes were ( a n d this was before I had the chrome removed ). I love my books, and since they have let me have my crayons back, I can finish colouring in the pictures ! The mensa types who can keep it in their heads, and have total recall, and dumb bastards like me who have to rely on books. There are two types of knowledge retention. I'm not a restorer, and I suppose my bikes come into the clean, working type of machine. A front disc shattered at the end of Conrod Straight at Bathurst, with a fatal result ! Not all cast iron is equal. A few years back here in OZ, a top flight road racer had a set of cast iron discs made for his two stroke racer. Stuart, like Tigernuts, I always understood Triumph discs were cast iron, but of a type specifically for this job.